The Great Wall of China at Simatai

I went to Simatai section of the Great Wall, about 70 miles north of Beijing, last weekend. It was really spectacular. Much better than the section at Badaling that I went to before. First, the Wall was the actual wall, rather than the 1960’s rebuilt version designed for tourists at Badaling. Second, because the location is remote, there were less other people and tourists. I was particularly struck by how the Wall was built on the very peaks of the mountains and towers every 50 or 100 yards apart. I climbed to the twelfth tower and farthest point allowed and had a spectacular view.

It boggles the mind how much human effort had to go into building the wall over peaks and mountains spanning across China. The designers really seemed to pick the most difficult areas to build the wall probably to make it that much harder for the Mongol hoards in the north to pass.

I asked how the Mongols eventually got through and I should have guessed the answer: bribery of guards and officials.

One of the best things about the trip was just getting out of Beijing. The air quality, green trees and mountains were a much needed change of scenery.I could also see how people live in the suburbs and countryside. They don't use big trucks and tractors to do construction or farming out in the country. They are work crews of 20+ guys with shovels, hoes, and carts. People sell fruits on the side of the road. Hotel managers sit on the side of road and wave and call at passing cars. A herd of cows crosses the road. An old couple sit by their tent (maybe a home?) near their honey bee boxes. I think of the midwest in America. How things are different here.

I watched World Cup matches for the first time. I saw the American team get beat by the Czech Republic 3 – 0 in their first match. Despite being beat I was proud of the American team for a few reasons. I liked to see the variety of ethnicities on the American team. White, Black, Latino, Asians players were all on the team. Compared with the all white Czech team, you could really see how America is a melting pot.

Another good point about the Americans was that they were not "fallers", meaning they didn’t fall and act hurt in order to get a call by the refs like I have seen other teams do. The American team had flashes of brilliance and decent technique and strategy. However, they were not able to control the ball nor as sharp, fast and decisive in their attack as other teams I have seen.

At my language school, where all the students are from different countries, I am reminded daily that football, or soccer as I know it, is the world’s most popular sport. Even a girl from Ghana, Africa, which the American team plays next, asked me if I was watching the games.

I am regularly asked why Americans do not watch soccer. My best guess is that soccer does not get as much TV and media time as baseball, American football, and basketball. It has not caught on yet and there may not be enough scoring.

As I said before I feel certain that I will not be going to Renmin University for another semester. I believe I can improve faster and use my time more efficiently by studying on my own for awhile. I want to check the job market now. I want to find a job where I can use Chinese. I think this would improve my Chinese and develop into a real business tool for me in the future. If I can not find anything then I probably will go back to school.

Finally, it looks like spring has taken hold after some fits and starts. The sun is shining early in the morning and I guess it will be a warm day. But I have added some pictures of Houhai park, another one of the emperor’s local hangouts, that I took in the last cold days of winter.

As everyone knows, there are over 1.2 billion people in China. One could take a map of China and start drawing a line from Dongbei, previously known as Manchuria, continue a little west of Beijing, south through Sichuan Province (known for its spicy food) and ending in Yunan Province on the southern coast. Around 94% of China’s population, or over 1.1 billion would live on eastern side of that line. From a glance at a map, the space all those people live in looks about the same as the western US.

Why do most people in China live in on the eastern side? The eastern side is more temperate, flat, fertile, lower elevations, and oceanside. Two great rivers, the Yellow river in the north and the Yangtze river in the south, which flow out into the Pacific Ocean created a lot of good land for agriculture. The western side of China is famous for the Gobi Desert and the Himalaya Mountains. I suppose it is much harder to live over there.

So what it my point? It is that China is even more crowded than it looks on a map. China looks to be a decent sized country on the map, but in fact most of it’s huge population lives on the eastern side.

I think this massive population density has an effect on culture. But I am still trying to figure out what kind of effects. One hypothesis is that it makes people feel more at ease approaching one another and having less personal space. Chinese students in universities may share a room with as many as 8 other students. No wonder I see them studying late into the night in empty classrooms around campus. Where else can they find some quiet space!

I was sitting at an outdoor pavilion on campus yesterday when a student sat next to me. Though I was enjoying my own peace and tranquility as the dusk approached, she in all seriousness suddenly asked me in English “What do you think of the people first policy?” Well, I don’t know what the people first policy is.

But this is not the first time I have been approached like this. I guess Chinese students want to A) Practice speaking English B) Are interested to know what foreigners think C) Hoping to make new friends D) Out of their minds E) Both A and B are correct

I guessed E. This student then went on to ask me many questions about policies, what things are like in my country, and finally to explain to me, though I really didn’t care to hear it from her, what was happening in China.

Finally, she walked off. I tried to use Chinese the whole conversation. I am becoming adamant about using Chinese. I want to practice too!

Anyway, when you come to China, prepare to see and meet alot of people. And as I have said before, expect the unexpected.

Trip to Changsha, China

Well, I went on a little trip to alleviate some stress. The school was feeling so empty, everyone was gone, both work and school were out, I decided to get out of town. I had a friend who lives in Hunan Province invite me out to visit, so I gave it a shot and went. I took an overnight train from West Beijing Station. That building is an awesome structure visually. It is really big, daunting and has a distinct Chinese flavor.

I rode in a soft sleeper car on the train. The soft sleeper cars have many small rooms, each with four beds. I could fit snugly into one of the beds. The beds were clean and comfortable and each had a TV on one end, by your feet, and the headphones, channel and volume control by your head. I left Beijing around 6 Pm and arrived in Changsha, the capital city of Hunan Province, at 7 Am the next day. I heard Hunan Province is known for a few things. It is where Mao Ze Dong was born and raised. I hear Mao’s little hometown, about 2 hour drive from Changsha, has become a small tourist spot. Another thing is Hunan food is pretty spicy but very delicious. Chinese people outside of Hunan are very prejudiced towards men from Hunan. I guess men from Hunan are very rude, boorish, ill-mannered, and all around bad. However, based on my trip I can not attest to that.

Anyway, Changsha has about 3.6 million people.Its amazing to me how many cities in China are huge, 3 or 4 times the population of Phoenix, and I had never heard of them until I came to China. As I was entering the city, I could see from the window some somewhat common sites. New huge modern high rises towering over ghetto-like housing and crumbling buildings. Piles of trash just heaped together on the ground left to the elements. That reminds me, I have rarely seen garbage trucks to the scale that we have in the states. In many places garbage collection is done by street workers with a dustpan and broom, or guys on bicycles pulling a cart.

After arrival, I unfortunately discovered my friend was busy most of the time I was there and I would have to do explore the city on my own. Fortunately I can attest that Hunan food is pretty good. I was able to eat at a few good restaurants, but it was really spicy!

The highlight of my trip was Yue Lu Mountian, on the outskirts of the city. The mountain is home to a big Buddhist temple. I climbed the mountain and explored the temple. I was surprised when a Buddhist nun gave me some apples and nuts. People usually give to the monks and nuns, not the other way around. I like the smell around a temple. The incense smells so good and makes one feel like they are in another world.

Back in the city, I went to Buxinjie, the most lively, clean, and modern part of the city. I have to admit though, I think I may have been the only white person in the city. I didn't see any others except near the train station, and everywhere I went I got stares, long looks, startled expressions, and called at "Hello!" You can tell when people are talking about you when someone looks at you, then nudges their friend, and their friend turns around and looks at you too and they start talking.

Most people all over China are bilingual to some extent. People are taught Mandarin, standard Chinese, in school. However, with family and friends people use their regional dialect or language. Some dialects are similar to Mandarin such as the Beijing dialect. However, most are as different as English is to French. I could not understand what Hunan people said among themselves, but we could converse in Mandarin one-on-one. We are lucky that in the states we can use regular English everywhere, maybe with the exception of some places in Kentucky or Arkansas. Just kidding! However, in China, the reality is many people have to study Mandarin so they can talk with people from other places or watch the National news etc.

Finally, on my way back to Beijing I had a startling discovery. I was looking in the mirror and found what looked like a colorless hair on my head. Upon further inspection, I found it to be a white hair! Wow, my first one!

Coincidentally, the next day back in Beijing, I woke up and opened the curtain to see the biggest snowfall of the winter. The entire city turned as white as a dove.

Ditan Temple Fair

I went to Ditan (Temple of the Earth) Park in the north part of the city. By the way, Beijing has a long history. Used during the last three dynasties, the Emperor's palace, also known as the Forbidden City, is in the center of the city. The entrance to the Forbidden City is the one that is particularly recognizable, because it now has a big framed picture of Mao Ze Dong on the front. There is something very conspicuous about this placement to me. As if they replaced the emperor with Mao Ze Dong. There is something fitting in that, replacing one dictator for eh-hem.

Anyway, Ditan, the Temple of the Earth is to the north of the Palace, Temple of Heaven is to the south, Temple of the Sun and Moon to the East and West. I understand one of the Emperor's big jobs was to go to these temples, offer prayers and sacrifice.

My visit to Ditan was not to make any sacrifices or offer prayers, rather to see the festival being held there. The Temples have all become public parks now, open to the people. The parks are used to hold public fairs and festivals. Inside Ditan, there were many shops selling all kinds of special New Years gifts, toys, games, arts and crafts, and food. There were areas that had games for people to play and win prizes like a state fair. I tried a few including throwing Chinese coins through a big wooden board in order to hit a bronze gong and trying to break light bulbs over a metal bowl. I don't know what the trick is, but I threw those light bulbs hard and still couldn't break a single one.

The crowd was big. The mass of people moved through the many different twists and turns of the paths. The shops outnumbered the entertainment and arts and crafts, but it was still interesting.

I saw food there I will never forget. Rather, they were unforgettable because they were disgusting. Something that one might see on Fear Factor! Bugs and scorpions, little chickens on a stick. I am not sure if the scorpions were some kind of gimmick food, but I did see people buy and eat them. Though I don't think that is normal Chinese cuisine, I have heard that in China anything that moves can be on the dinner table.